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Day 15: Goreme to Trabzon then to Batumi, Georgia

Tuesday 1st August 2017 at 14:10

Morning came pretty early. Mostly because we had to be at the street by 4:45 to get our van ride to the hot air balloon. Also Goodman and I didn’t go to bed until after 2 some time and I for one woke up around 4 and laid around until it was time to get out of the tent. All of the ralliers that were staying at Dilek had reserved a spot to get on the balloon. That is except for a team of Scottish guys (and 1 Irish) who showed up very late at night and were told it was full. Anyway we all made it up to the street in time and then just waited. And waited. And waited. Part of the fun of the balloon ride over the valley is that you are supposed to be in the balloon by sunrise. Well… whatever company was in charge of our group wasn’t very timely. Our gracious host Murat was very stressed out, pacing back and forth making phone calls trying to figure out what was wrong. This is literally that company’s only job, pick up people early and then fly them on a balloon. To my knowledge the balloons don’t fly later in the day, so it should be a simple process.

It was probably an hour later before the van arrived. I feel bad for Murat because it wasn’t his fault, but everyone kept coming up to him to ask him what was wrong. We all piled in and headed towards the balloon launch site which was about 15 minutes away. By this time a ton if not most of the balloons had already launched. We reckoned being late into the air would be a good thing because all the balloons would be in front of us, making for some great pictures.

Now I don’t know if you’ve ever seen a hot air balloon be inflated before. The process is pretty cool but also pretty sketchy. The thing is laying in it’s side and a group of 5 guys are doing their best to get it into the air without bumping into the balloon next to them. As soon as it’s fully inflated there’s a fire drill to get everyone inside as the thing doesn’t want to sit on the ground. Unfortunately they cram a bunch of people in there so you don’t have a ton of room. Next thing you know we’re up in the air.

They say the flight lasts about 45 minutes to an hour, depending on how fast the winds are I guess. Regardless if definitely feels like it flies by. Our pilot was very Turkish, and he tried explaining to us some of the history of the scenery below us but his English wasn’t great. So here’s a quick summary. There are a ton of underground cities that were built starting around 1200 BC. People didn’t really live down there, but it was a network for people to get around conveniently and helpful if they came under attack. Also there are a ton of above ground rock houses that are carved into the rock. Not made of rock, into the rock. It’s pretty cool to see. Our guide was a balloon expert and would drop the thing to within 20 feet of the ground or some of these structures so we could see them close up. Very very cool.

The hour breezes by and it’s time to land. It was explained when we boarded that when the pilot says we’re landing, everyone crouches down into the thing and waits to land. So we do. Once that happens you really have no idea of your surroundings or how high you are. You do however totally know when you hit a tree. And maybe another tree, or several bushes? The wind was a little bit stronger than normal so I’m not sure if we under or over shot the landing but we hit some stuff, and the crew on the ground was running after us and apparently got dragged around through some farmer’s field. It was really pretty funny. And again, kinda sketchy. Incredibly worth it though, it’s the only way you can take in such an impressive landscape, not to mention the site of dozens and dozens of balloons across the horizon.

Our plan was to drive to Trabzon which is up on the northern coast of Turkey and right on the Black Sea. It was kind of an arbitrary place to go, and it turns out other teams were there or had been there before us. It was a 9 hour drive which is a little grueling on a car with a new engine. Doblo made it though. The drive was pretty cool. It sucks driving up these steep mountain passes because the little motor can’t handle it well, but the way down is a lot of fun. There was a point when I took over where they had laid down all new asphalt but it wasn’t marked. So what looked to be about 8 lanes worth of road with no demarcation was a little weird at first, but hell if there isn’t anyone around you can do whatever you want. The rest of the drive was relatively uneventful other than the fact that somehow our car had gotten several bees in it. One of the bees was giant and he was on the window in the backseat when I was riding back there. I’ve never been stung by a bee. Ever. I wasn’t about to let some dumb Turkish bee change that for me so I was trying to shoo him out the window but it wasn’t working. Next idea was to open the van door so the air would knock him out. It totally worked. Unfortunately my flip flop was right up against the door, so a few seconds after congratulating myself on solving the bee problem I realized I was missing one of them. So I didn’t get stung but I think the bee still won. Now I have to figure out where to get new flip flops because I don’t want to wear tennis shoes for the next 30 days in the desert. Also I’m not sure I even got the bee out. Once I switched to the driver seat – tennis shoes on now 🙁 – after a few minutes I felt something tickle the to of my ankle. The first time I figured it was a shoe lace. The second time it happened I assumed it was a bee. It was a bee. I screamed like a 15 year old girl and stuck my leg out of the window to get him off. Not everyone was thrilled with this, but it was still pretty funny.

We got into Trabzon and everyone immediately hated it. Like many Turkish cities it was crowded, traffic sucked, and it had a generally chaotic atmosphere. Not to mention it felt a little boring. We decided to figure out how to park the car somewhere, walk to a bar and discuss our options. Mitch and Goodman wanted to press on to Georgia. I most definitely did not. Everyone had their reasons and I think they made sense. I didn’t want to push the car, not to mention be in it for another 5+ hours and cross an insane border at night – and it was already 7 or so. They didn’t want to stay in a crappy city because it would definitely be a pain in the ass to figure out, and have to cross the border the next day when it was hot out. We were told to expect at least 2-3 hours, some teams were there considerably longer than that. Not to mention if we got into Batumi – which is another beach city, we would have the whole day to enjoy there. I was incredibly tired at this point, but conceded that their plan was fine. Especially since I got in the backseat and laid down.

The border was an absolute shit show. I guess they are building a new customs complex, and in the mean time their system makes zero fucking sense. Hundreds of cars are trying to clear Turkish customs and they literally had 2 windows. 1 for cars, 1 for semi trucks. I think we got to the window about 2-2.5 hours after we first got our car in line. There was trash everywhere, people yelling at each other, total chaos. Then it got really fun (not fun at all.) I was in the passenger seat at the time, and when we pulled up a border officer shined his flash light at me then pointed it to a giant line of people to the left. That line of people were clearly there for some bus tickets or something, I’m not sure. Didn’t look like a customs line. I got out and asked, he did the same. I started walking towards the line, by that time Mitch and Goodman had gotten out of the car as well. Thankfully another guy spoke some English and told me to stay with the car since it’s under my name and the other 2 had to go to the other line. I think he was a little more specific with his direction, but I’m not sure as I was trying to not be in the way any more. They walked away so quickly they didn’t grab their phones, so once we were separated I hoped there would be an easy way to get back together on the other side somehow.

Mitch makes fun of me for it and Rachel points it out too, it’s my time to shine when I have to talk to the cops, or with Rachel customer service people. Border officers are both, and I’m sure it’s a crappy job. I got through to the other side really quickly, didn’t have to have anything taken out of the car and searched, I was just overly friendly and kept showing everyone a map of where we were going. Now the Turkish customs and Georgia border are fucking massive. When I got through I had no idea where to find the other 2 or where they’d pop out. I drove past a bunch of people waiting for family or friends to cross – and everyone stairs, you get used to it – and just parked hoping they would see it. I was quite happy to see that as soon as you cross the border there are several small casinos and that meant wi-fi.

Unfortunately our TEP device doesn’t work in Georgia, I’m not sure how that system works but I don’t think they have a contract with anyone because it’s insanely expensive. Mitch has free calling/data through Sprint I think, and he looked it up to see if his phone would work and nope. Not only that, $5/minute for calls and $0.12 per kb of data. Holy shit. Of the 20 countries we’re going through our awesome badass hotspot (THANKS TEP!!) doesn’t work in Georgia, Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan or Mongolia. The first 3 we’re driving through in a row, so navigating is really interesting when all of a sudden you don’t have an easy way to do it. Anyway I got some free wi-fi to let Rachel know we made it across the border, and then we headed towards the hostel Goodman had booked for us before we hit the border. Thankfully Batumi was only a 20 minute drive from the border so the night was almost over. We found the hostel which was set up a little different than we’ve seen. There wasn’t a lobby, or a door to go in for that matter. It was probably 4 or so at this point so Goodman had to bang on a window loud enough to wake up the woman who was running it. After a few minutes of back and forth we were told they didn’t actually have a room for us, sorry. Fuuuuuuck.

This left us with a few options, none of them fun. Find another room somewhere – sucks because we would probably have to be up and out by 10am to figure out where to stay that day. Sleep in car – which would suck so hard. Drive around until we found somewhere to camp – which would also suck since the sun would be up in a few hours and sleeping in a tent when the sun is out is hard. We headed towards the beach assuming we could camp somewhere there. Again this is a lot harder to do when you can’t look up campgrounds or book anything with your phone. Ugh. We actually did come across a field of tents which looked pretty fucking sketchy, but that’s what we were left with. We had to drive waaaay down this street just to flip around, and as we’re doing this we see this beautiful building: A Hilton. Mitch is a gold member so he popped out of the car to use their wi-fi, and decided it was worth asking how much it would be to book the room with points. In the mean time Goodman and I jumped on a wi-fi spot we had found outside and were looking into hostels for the following day. I’m not sure what magic Mitch worked, but he was able to book a room for the following night with points he had, AND get an early check-in on the room – which would be now. Hallelujah, we were exhausted.

We pulled into the garage and headed up to pass out. We had been up since 4 the previous day on only a few hours of sleep. Long long long day, but at least when we got up we’d get to enjoy this beach town. Also I parked our car in the garage next to this awesome Maserati, hoping that the owner would walk down the next day and think WTF is this fucking thing doing next to my car.

 

 

 

 

DAY 14: Finally getting the F out of Ankara
DAY 16 – Batumi, Georgia

Related Posts

  • Sunday 6th May 2018 at 18:29

    Day 47: Finish line +2

    Ryan and I decided to wander around in the afternoon and find some souvenirs. Somewhere along the way we heard some gibberish coming from a loudspeaker in the town square so we headed that way. Turns out it was A BREAK DANCE BATTLE! The guy on the P.A. just kept yelling “blah blah ALL STYLES.”

    For a town square middle of the afternoon break dance battle it ended up being incredibly lame. I’ve seen a better break dance battle start spontaneously at an LMFAO concert 7 years ago, so color me unimpressed. We walked around for a little longer and decided to find some food. Italian sounded awesome, we hadn’t had a solid pizza since America. We did find an Italian place, but we did not find good pizza. Google translate struggled to translate the all Russian menu but we ordered what was supposed to be a “meatlovers” or so we thought. Sorry for the blurry picture, but the pizza had possibly no sauce on it and was just cheese, ham and pickles? Silly Russia…

    Ryan had a flight out that night, so we said our goodbyes. What a fucking adventure.

     

    CLICK TO READ MORE
  • Sunday 6th May 2018 at 18:18

    Day 46: Finish line +1

     

    Uuuuughhh very rough start. I think I had a 10am appointment to take our car to the train yard and sign over the title but there was no fucking way that was going to happen. We had a very late night and a ton of beer. Rich and I stayed out until close to 4. I think I peeled myself out of bed around 1 and managed to get the car to the rail yard by 2 or so. Thankfully the appointment slots didn’t really mean much, the people there would take about 20 cars per day and it didn’t matter when – unofficially. One of our license plates had rattled off somewhere in Mongolia but I was determined to keep the other one but I had to take it off stealthily, which I successfully did. Then it was time to say goodbye to el Doblo. She done good.

    There were a couple Aussies at the yard at the same time so we all shared an uber back to the finish line. There was an awesome and empty massive bar there with wi-fi. The only thing left to do was to find a flight home. I had tried the day before but the airline sites were timing out for some reason. Getting home from Ulan-Ude isn’t exactly tricky but it requires flying to Moscow first, which was the part I was having difficulty with. The flights 2 days later were filling up and the tickets went from a little over $300 to $500 by the time I was able to book a ticket. Flights from Moscow were surprisingly cheap from being so far away, somewhere in the $500 range. Thankfully I remember to check the American Airlines website because it just so happened I had enough miles to fly home from Moscow for free AND first class the entire way. After 6 weeks on the road a little luxury was a welcome surprise.

    Mitch had flown home early that morning but Ryan and I were still in town along with the Birch brothers as well as Hendrick and Dave from Starsky and Dutch. We decided we should find a nice restaurant that night for dinner, which we did sort of. Honestly don’t remember a ton of details because as soon as my flight was booked I hit the beers once again to celebrate with more of the teams that were arriving at the finish. We hit a few bars that night and then unfortunately all had to say goodbye. Ryan and I didn’t fly our respective ways for 2 days (that crazy son of a bitch flew to southeast Asia after our trip) but everyone else left in the morning.

     

     

     

     

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  • Sunday 6th May 2018 at 17:41

    Day 45: The Mongol F’ing Rally Finish Line

    Today would be the last early morning of the trip. We got up a little after 7, prayed the cars would start, and then headed to the finish line which was about 3 hours away.

    I spent the first half of the drive thinking about the journey and what I would write to my friends and family on Facebook. I’ll admit that I was fighting back tearing up at the thought of getting there and how much the trip had meant. The guys let me take over for the last leg of the drive so that I could be the one to drive to the finish. Very cool.

    For being in the middle of absolutely nowhere Ulan-Ude is a surprisingly big city. It took a while to wind through the city and then all of a sudden we pulled into a big open courtyard and there it was.

    We waited our turn to drive up on to the stage and get some incredibly awesome pictures taken. After all we’d been through, after all the car had been through. I’m still a little shocked that the Doblo pulled it off. We had cursed it a million times and we couldn’t be ready to be done with it. To it’s credit though that stupid car made it. We limped to the finish line, but we still made it.

    There was a ton of paperwork to fill out, including writing our team info on a big board of everyone else who had made it. 45 days later. Out of around 300 teams we finished #108 I believe. As you can imagine we took a ton of pictures, and got a lot with our convoy mates. We have all been together since Turkmenistan.

    After that it was up to us to do with all our stuff. We sorted through everything we had looking for any souvenirs. Anything that was still in good condition we added to the donation pile. Mitch decided to take quite a big souvenir for himself, which he managed to do with an axe.

    We all booked a room at a hotel a few miles from the finish line, aaaaaaand then we started drinking and didn’t stop.

    For those interested here’s my finish line FB post:

    “This is a little surreal. After a year of planning and 7 weeks on the road here we are at the finish line of something I never thought I’d be able to do. The Mongol Rally has probably been the hardest thing I’ve ever done. It’s been mentally exhausting, physically grueling, frustrating, and stressful. There were a lot of points where we could have given up. Our car is a 13 year old Italian car that has no business being where we’ve taken it. Our engine blew up, our fuel pump is patched together with bailing wire and glue, all of the suspension is gone. We’ve been stranded in some of the most desolate places I’ve ever been. But we didn’t give up.

    It’s also been an incredible and once in a lifetime experience that’s taken me through places I’d never see otherwise. We’ve met so many wonderful and hilarious people along the way and made some great friends. This picture is 100% worth the trouble it took to get here.

    Understandably there was a lot of concern for our safety and well being traveling through 20 countries. One of the things I wanted to prove to myself and everyone else is that the world isn’t as scary as we sometimes think it is. There hasn’t been a moment over the last 7 weeks that I’ve felt threatened in any way.

    While there is a small fraction that try to make it seem otherwise, this world of ours is absolutely full of good people. The amount of kindness and hospitality we’ve received from strangers is indescribable and unrepayable. We made it to the end in large part due to help from people who don’t speak our language and will never see again, who didn’t have to but many times went out of their way to help us. There hasn’t been any point where our nationality has been an issue. Whether it was the hundreds of honks and waves we got or sharing vodka with Russian border guards (one of whom may or not be in the mob, gave me his #, an open invitation to stay at his home and said he’d beat up anyone who gave us any trouble in Russia – thanks Stas!) most people don’t give a fuck about geopolitics and are just very appreciative that we came to visit their country. They were great representatives of theirs and we’ve done our best to be good unofficial ambassadors for America.

    From the bottom of my heart I want to thank my teammates Ryan Goodman and Mitch Walker for going on this crazy adventure. Thank you Rachel for being supportive of this dream of mine, being ok with me being away for 7 weeks. Thank you Robby and Nate for taking care of the office. Thank you to our friends and family for your generous donations to us and our charity. Thank you to our sponsors for helping make the trip a little easier. To a far lesser degree thanks to the cop in Kazakhstan who let me talk him out of a ticket, we all know not having your headlights on at 11 am is a stupid law. Last not least, thank you Doblo for letting us beat you up.

    So be nice to people. Be even nicer to strangers. And always bring a towel.”

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    CLICK TO READ MORE

Recent Posts

  • Day 47: Finish line +2
  • Day 46: Finish line +1
  • Day 45: The Mongol F’ing Rally Finish Line
  • Day 44: The home stretch
  • Day 43: We made it to to Ulaan-F’N-Baatar
  • Day 42: Mongolia day 3, the never-ending plains
  • Day 41: Mongolia day 2. This place kills cars.
  • Day 40: I can’t believe it, we’re in Mongolia
  • Day 39: We made it. The Mongolian f’n border!
  • Day 38: Camping in the Altai mountains
  • Day 37: Russian tradition!
  • Day 36: Kazakhstan pt 2, extortion day!
  • Day 35: Kazakhstan day 1, no Borat sighting
  • Day 34: Through the rest of Kyrgyzstan
  • Day 33: Getting the F out of Tajikistan
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